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Swapping switches on a mechanical keyboard is one of the most satisfying upgrades you can make. Before buying replacements, check the Cherry MX specs guide or the full switches guide. is one of the most satisfying upgrades you can make to a setup. If you have a hot-swap board, it takes about 20 minutes and no tools beyond a switch puller. If you have a soldered board, it requires a soldering iron and a bit more patience — but it’s still doable.
Check What You Have First
Look up your keyboard model and confirm whether it has hot-swap sockets or soldered switches. Hot-swap boards have metal contacts in each switch socket that grip the switch pins — you can pull switches out and push new ones in without heat. Soldered boards have switches permanently attached with solder — you need to melt the solder to remove them.
Also check whether your board uses 3-pin or 5-pin switches, and whether your replacement switches match. Most modern boards are 5-pin compatible, and 5-pin switches can be used in 3-pin boards by clipping the extra two stabilizing pins.
Hot-Swap Replacement (No Soldering)
What you need: switch puller, replacement switches. That’s it.
Remove all keycaps first. Use a keycap puller — pull straight up, don’t wiggle. Set keycaps aside in a safe place.
Use the switch puller to remove each switch. The puller has two metal hooks that slide into the gaps on the sides of the switch housing — squeeze and pull straight up. Don’t yank at an angle. Remove all switches before installing new ones if you want a clean swap.
Install new switches by aligning the pins with the socket and pushing straight down until it clicks into place. Check that the switch is seated fully — wiggly switches are not fully seated. Reinstall keycaps. Done.
Soldered Replacement (With Soldering Iron)
What you need: soldering iron (60W or higher recommended), solder wick or desoldering pump, switch puller, replacement switches, flux (optional but helpful).
Open the keyboard case to access the PCB. For each switch: heat the solder joints on the back of the PCB with the iron (usually 2 or 3 joints per switch), then use the desoldering pump or wick to remove the molten solder. Repeat for both pins. Pull the switch out with the switch puller once the solder is removed.
Install the new switch by inserting the pins through the PCB holes, then soldering each pin. Apply a small amount of solder — enough to fill the hole and form a smooth joint without bridging to adjacent connections. Let cool, check continuity, move on.
Full board desoldering takes 2 to 4 hours. Don’t rush — a cold solder joint will cause the new switch to register inconsistently.
Testing After Replacement
Before fully reassembling: plug in the keyboard and use an online key tester to verify every replaced switch registers correctly. Fix any issues before closing the case. For hot-swap boards, a non-registering key usually means the switch isn’t fully seated. For soldered boards, it usually means a poor solder joint.
